Summary of drainage fitting

The first thing that you will need to think about when undertaking any DIY plumbing and sewage are the regulations issued by your Local Authority.

You need to explain your work plan in detail to the authority if you wish to install a new drainage system or alter an existing one, the officials will then go through the plan to check if it is in accordance with the rules. If you are simply replacing damaged sections of the drainage, in most circumstances they do not need to be informed.

Surface water is basically water from rain and is handled differently from dark waste water in a modern sewage development. In older properties this can discharged into a foul water drainage system whereas in other properties this can discharged into a soakaway, watercourse or a surface water sewer. To stop any nasty odours emanating from the drains a combined system will discharge the surface water into the foul water drains by way of the gully traps. However with the new drainage systems, the foul and the surface water can be kept apart. To comply with modern planning rules you should always make sure that the foul water and surface water sewage system do not connect. When in doubt about the how the modern drainage system works, consult the Building Control Department.

Before you begin, you will need to plan the route of the waste pipes. Have an eye to future care when you design the sewage system and always try to keep the waste or soil pipe as straight and short as you can when you are devising the layout. If the pipe slope is excessive, your joint alignment may fail. Use a surveyor’s leveling tool to set out the slope of the drain trench. If you do not have one of these available, establish a datum point and use a hosepipe filled with water to establish levels and calculate the fall from the datum this way.

The stability of the existing building is of prime importance it should be not compromised while the drain pipe ditch is being installed so check you are not impacting on the existing structure. If placing a sewer alongside the building, you need to make sure any foundations are not damaged.

Try to leave as short a time as possible between digging the ditch and installing the sewage system as an empty ditch represents a danger with the potential for a sidewall collapse. The pipes should be laid quickly and the ditch back filled after the system has been examined thoroughly and tested as required.

Be wary of the depth and soil conditions and if necessary add extra support to the ditch. Avoid risks when working in the trench. If you have any worries, you should support to the ditch to reduce any risk of collapsing side walls during the building phase. The excavation should be only as wide as required, but should also permit the fitter to work conveniently. The base of the ditch should be clean and even and free from protruding stones or bricks etc. If the material at the base of the trench is not appropriate then you might have to bring in new material.

The pipe present in the trench should not be supported using bricks or other such materials. In fact they should be never used as support as they can damage the pipe as they will focus pressure into a small area. The base should be tightly packed in the appropriate manner with holes carved out to fit in the protruding pipe connections. A good guideline is that support should be provided for the entire length of the pipe.

An important criteria for pipe layout is that you should be able to access any point with a drain rod to clear blockages. This need for drain rod access can be easily achieved by keeping the pipeline straight and in short sections. As a general rule, any change in direction of the pipework should be provided with an inspection chamber to allow rodding access.

Following this guide you can see that DIY plumbing and sewage can be delivered by conscientious DIY enthusiasts.

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